Ten Days in the Yukon

Day 10/Wrap Up

June 10, 2017

Whitehorse temps: 27/10 C

Our last fine breakfast by Chef Scott at Hidden Valley equipped us well for a leisurely re-packing of suitcases and souvenirs before we headed back to the the tiny two-gate Erik Nielsen Whitehorse International Airport.

Ready to board at Whitehorse Erik Nielsen International Airport © Dan Silas 2017

I returned our Ford Focus Titanium rental car with just 10 km over the free 1800 km limit. While taking picture of the mileage for the rental agent, I noticed we had achieved an overall average of 5.8 litres/100 km on the fuel efficiency monitor. Assuming the computer is correct, that’s stunningly good fuel consumption - about 5 mpg better than manufacturer claims after adjusting for the smaller US gallon.

The Wrap

The Yukon is a stunning place to visit, and a photographer's dream. Its open country and wide valleys are a Prairie man’s paradise. There’s an energy that can’t quite be articulated when you experience the 20-ish hours of daylight; this allows for lots of time to sightsee. Outdoors, nature calls your soul at every bend in the road.

Yukoners are innovative with their food, plate it very attractively, and cater to taste buds previously unexplored (these folks do more with the humble french fry than anywhere else I’ve been).

The Yukon may be known for its eclectic and eccentric people, but the they are unfailingly nice, helpful, and direct. Everyone we met assumed we were visiting someone we knew; when they found out that wasn’t true, the welcome became even warmer.

The folks at Travel Yukon either train their staff exceedingly well, or hire only the best ambassadors (or both). I’ve visited other national and provincial parks offices and have sometimes felt more like an intrusion. Not so in the Yukon. They are genuinely glad you came.

True test: Would I go back?

I’d go back in a heartbeat, but likely in a different season. I’d love to travel the Dempster Highway in August, when I’m told the fall colours make you feel like you’re inside a painting. Winter also holds a certain allure for the photographer in me. Being from Manitoba, I’m not scared of the legendary cold. Some Yukoners with Manitoba winter experience told me the winters are actually harsher in my home province - and then there’s the promise of aurora borealis.

Take me back, Yukon Territory.

Take me back, Yukon Territory © Dan Silas 2017

Day 9

June 9, 2017

Whitehorse temps: 31/12 C

Road trip to Kluane National Park and Reserve

By 9 am-ish we were on the Alaska Highway headed west toward Kluane National Park and Reserve. A 30-ish kilometre road construction delay had us arriving in Haines Junction at the same time as our appetites.

Alaska Highway, headed to Kluane National Park and Reserve © Dan Silas 2017

We picked up some sandwiches and pastries at the Village Bakery and Deli and deferred our tummy growls until we arrived at Kathleen Lake in Kluane and dined al fresco at a lakeside picnic table. Afterward, we did some casual shoreline hiking around this postcard lake, dipped our feet in the icy water, and just relaxed in the splendour of this amazing place. Harreson Tanner, the sculptor in Whitehorse who first recommended this stop to us, deserves a nod of gratitude for the tip. Except for a generous offering of bugs, this is one of the closest places to paradise I’ve ever visited. People were few, and by the time we left in mid-afternoon, the place was almost empty.

Kathleen Lake, Kluane National Park and Reserve. Somehow I managed to catch a tiny flying critter in this frame. © Dan Silas 2017

The highway within the park, maintained by the federal government, was so flawless that it called us to explore a little further west. A hiking trail above Dezadeash Lake called our names, so off we went, whistling, humming, and chatting in the absence of the bear bells we should have worn, according to the warning sign at the trail head.

Dezadeash Lake from the Rock Glacier trail © Dan Silas 2017

Thirty degree celsius heat limited our hike to about half-way, but offered stunning views of the lake and surrounding ranges nonetheless. Inventive trail builders put the broken stone from this rock glacier to good use, creating stairs, stepping stones and even a low walled shelter with resting benches. With no breeze in the air, the utter silence only added to the visual vastness of this place.

The heat dampened our appetites and called for something cold. Milk shakes and onion rings from Frosty Freeze back in Haines Junction fit the bill nicely, and sent us down the road back to Whitehorse for our last night.

Day 8

June 8, 2017

Whitehorse temps: 31/9 C

A wholesome gourmet breakfast of wonderfully fluffy scrambled eggs, toast with locally made spruce tip jam, and a seasoned poached pear awaited us on this particular morning.

Sign at Hidden Valley B&B: tasty food, local ingredients. © Dan Silas 2017

With a leisurely paced day in store, I hung around and plucked out a few fingerstyle tunes on one of the living room guitars while my wife had a shower. The old acoustic axe sounded surprisingly good given its appearance. Before I knew it, one of the resident hounds joined me on the couch and promptly fell asleep. Innkeeper Tara Steigenberger gazed upon the scene with surprise, remarking that the this particular she-dog didn’t like men (score one for me).

Serenading the hound that apparently doesn't like men. © Laura Dyck 2017

This being our second last day in Whitehorse, we chose to explore a few shops inadequately enjoyed when we first arrived.

We once again took advantage of Art in the Park and enjoyed the West Dawson Ramblers. I later learned that lead singer and guitar player Kevin Barr has some history as a politician. Later I had a nice chat with the mandolin player Marc Ladouceur who promptly invited me to the Yukon Bluegrass Festival at Haines Junction on the weekend. I’ve been part of a number of bands over the decades, including a long stretch with a Manitoba based bluegrass band, so Marc’s invitation spoke to my soul while the cold beer he offered me if I showed up spoke to my thirst on this 30 degree Celsius weekend. Sadly, we had other plans - and a schedule that required us to be on a plane back to the Prairies by noon on the Saturday of the festival.

West Dawson Ramblers perform at Art in the Park © Dan Silas 2017

Lunch involved some excellent chicken thigh thingies I don’t recall the name of with dipping sauces from the Garlic A GoGo Greek food truck nearby. Yum!

Next stop was the Arts Underground where we enjoyed more local artists’ work - and met yet another Winnipegger minding the shop. Without exception, everyone we met in the Yukon was friendly, hospitable, and helpful.

The sun was bright and the temps were hot as we passed a sign that beckoned us in for cool refreshments. How can you not check out a place called The Dirty Northern Bastard? After enjoying a Happy Hour discounted refreshment, my wife opted to check out a few more shops. I was done-in, so I hung out in the park next door to the White Pass Yukon Route rail station reflecting on the past nine days and jotting down some notes.

Dirty Northern Bastard © Dan Silas 2017

Supper took us to Epic Pizza in the Riverdale subdivision, where we’d read that a well known local folk performer would lead patrons into an open mic night. For whatever reason he didn’t show, so the hosts started the open mic. I can tell you that Kris Kristofferson covers are alive and well in Whitehorse. The Epic’s claim to fame is “the best thin crust pizza in town.” Even an after-the-fact review of their menu could not break loose any recollections of what we had, but it was delicious.

The next day - our last in the Yukon - called for a road trip to Kluane National Park and Reserve, so we turned in early to rest up.

Day 7

June 7, 2017

Return road trip to Whitehorse

Dawson City Temps: 27/8 C

Gas price in Dawson City: $1.30/litre

Having experienced the road up to Dawson a few days earlier, we now knew what to expect. This time, we packed a lunch of some snacks and a couple of freshly made sandwiches created at a tiny little sandwich bar inside the back of the Bonanza Market. This allowed us to stop whenever we felt hungry.

Heading south to Whitehorse, at the intersection of the Klondike and Dempster Highways. © Dan Silas 2017

The return trip was uneventful, punctuated only by the stunning vistas. With the iPod delivering some favourites, including Sam Baker, Danny Schmidt, Greg Brown, Harry Manx, and Paul Bergman, we cruised the miles away under mostly blue skies. I’m a prairie man at heart, and love watching the ever changing skyscapes in my home province of Manitoba. I’ve visited the Rocky mountains and the Alps' several locations throughout Canada and Europe. After a while, I find these high peaks and narrow valleys make me claustrophobic. But the Yukon is very open country. I got to enjoy its beautiful skies, mountains, wide valleys without ever once feeling hemmed in.

Yukon River © Dan Silas 2017

An early evening check-in at Hidden Valley B&B followed by a tapas sampler at the Burnt Toast Cafe sated our needs for the moment. The tapas platter (potato skins, truffle fries, pulled pork and goat cheese nachos) was delicious. A meal unto itself, and affordable dining for two.

Upon return to the B&B we lounged for a bit in the spacious grounds and beautiful gardens until the mosquitoes drove us indoors. Until now, we hadn’t really had any serious bug experiences; but Hidden Valley is located some 20 minutes just outside Whitehorse, which, we learned, does have a mosquito abatement program within its city limits.

We are both the types who need darkness to achieve quality sleep, so out came our sleep masks, as our room had no black out curtains.

Day 6

June 6, 2017

Dawson City temps: 22/4 C

Breakfast time slots at Juliette’s let us sleep a little later than usual after the prior busy day and late night.

We enjoyed the Parks Canada tours so much the day before, we decided to stick with success. A Behind the Scenes tour took us into the partially restored Yukon newspaper and press building and a warehouse of preserved artifacts awaiting restoration. In the afternoon, a guided tour of the Commissioner’s residence gave us glimpses into the past with three very well done dramatized, period vignettes highlighting the challenges of running a large upper class household while governing a rough and tumble gold mining town.

The Commissioner's Residence © Dan Silas 2017

One of three historical vignette's presented inside the Commissioner's Residence. Here a local women from the church is pleading with the Commissioner to react to the debauchery of certain members of the mining population. © Dan Silas 2017

In between the tours we visited the Dänojà Zho Cultural Centre and Klondike Institute of Art and Culture (KIAC).

The architecturally beautiful Dänojà Zho Cultural Centre © Dan Silas 2017

An extremely well done permanent exhibit highlighted the history of the Tr’ondëk Hwëch’in First Nation in the region, and the story of their displacement which coincided with European settlement and the gold rush in the area. A temporary and very moving exhibit about Indian Residential Schools shared the stories of this tragically imposed attempt at assimilation into white culture, a collaboration of both church and state. The Dänojà Zho Cultural Centre is a must visit destination in Dawson City.

Just one of several moving exhibits depicting the Tr'ondëk Hwëch'in First Nations' people's experience with residential schools. © Dan Silas 2017

At KIAC the gracious executive director, Karen, whom we’d previously met at dinner the night before, give us a tour of the facility and the current exhibit, Eyes Water Fire, by Tomoyao Ihayo. Thank you, Karen, for making time for us in the midst of planning the opening the next day for a printmaking exhibit and event.

As it happened, an air show was scheduled for the afternoon. We were told it was Dawson’s first ever air show intended to commemorate the role of aviation in the North, as well as Canada’s 150th year since confederation (Canada Day is actually on July 1). Its start time was delayed by several hours, and as a result we managed to catch the last of it, as it overlapped our tour of the Commissioner’s House. I do hope that Canada Day celebrations in Dawson on July 1 acknowledged the thousands of years original peoples lived here before Europeans and bush planes arrived on the scene.

A highlight for me was the Bonanza to Hunker Creek loop road just outside of Dawson City. This is where you’ll find the famous Dredge #4, yet another restored Parks Canada site explaining how gold mining moved from panning to mass production. We stopped and poked around a bit, but my main interest was further up the road, past the off-grid independent gold mines and up to King Solomon’s Dome, with an elevation just above the tree line. The views from up here were nothing short of stunning.

Back in Dawson, we tried Belinda’s Dining Room at the Westmark Hotel at someone’s recommendation. This was our most mediocre dining experience of the entire Yukon trip. It clearly catered to the bus tour crowd. I did appreciate the waiter’s recommendation of Bonanza Brown by Yukon Brewing, a nice smooth dark beer I wish I could get in Manitoba.

After a short driving tour of a few unexplored corners of Dawson City, we turned in for an early evening and a good night’s rest before hitting the road back to Whitehorse the next day. We packed a lot into a short three day stay in Dawson City. Every minute was worth it.

Day 5

Day 5 (June 5, 2017)

Dawson City Temps: 22/5 C

Thanks to blackout curtains in our cosy little B&B room, the midnight sun and 4 am dawn didn’t keep us awake all night.

This is important. The long daylight hours this time of year will mess with your internal clock. More than once we glanced at the time, only to find out it was much later than we thought. And our plans for today meant it would be the longest day.

With appetites sated by a breakfast of ham, eggs, beans, hash browns and toast, we made our way to the Visitor’s Centre for a Walking Tour of Historic Dawson, guided by Ode, a knowledgeable Parks Canada staff, and Justin, a costumed interloper who pops up in character as Arizona Charlie Meadows, the gun toting entrepreneur of gold rush era Dawson City. We enjoyed several of these guided experiences during our stay, including the Life and Poetry of Robert Service (guided and acted by France, a fellow Winnipegger with an obvious passion for the words of Robert Service). Dawson City is also the native home of famed Canadian Pierre Berton, and White Fang author Jack London lived here for a time.

Arizona Charlie in character revelling in his exploits as the merchant/ and entertainment mogul of Dawson City at the turn of the 1900s. © Dan Silas 2017

Parks Canada staffer France entertains with passionate readings from her personal marked up copy of Robert Service poetry. © Dan Silas 2017

I was glad to hear most of the tour guides acknowledge that Dawson City rests on tribal lands of the Tr’ondëk Hwëch’in First Nation. On at least two tours, the guides spoke briefly of the legacy of Indian Residential Schools, a tragic black mark in Canada’s history. I later learned in an informal discussion with one of the guides that including this information was new for this year, and I am glad for it. While Canada is a great country and citizens have much to be grateful for, it’s also important to be critical where the historical and ongoing story of relationships with original peoples leaves much to be desired.

We met up for supper with an old acquaintance of mine at the Drunken Goat Taverna for an exquisite sampler tray of Greek cuisine on the recommendation of our host, where we were also introduced to the director of KIAC - the Klondike Institute of Art and Culture.

This particular day proved to be our longest as we planned a short drive up to the dome just outside of Dawson to view the midnight sun. To kill some time before that main event, we boarded the free George Black Ferry to cross the Yukon River to check out West Dawson and the Top of the World Highway.

The colourful streets of Dawson City reminded me of Canada's Maritime cities. The entirety of Dawson is designated a national historic site, so new construction must meet a code of standards. This buildings are actually all part of the relatively new Westmark Inn. © Dan Silas 2017

West Dawson is where local character Caveman Bill has literally lived in a hole in the river bank for some 20 years. One might imagine a hermit. We didn’t meet him, but learned he’s quite sociable. A few years ago a friend from Victoria won a fundraiser raffle for tea with Caveman Bill.

We drove about 20 km up the Top of the World Highway which only made me wish we had more time. This route follows the top contours of the mountains and offers spectacular views.

View from Top of the World Highway at 11:00 pm on June 5 - yet another road trip to add to the bucket list. © Dan Silas 2017

Before crossing the river back to Dawson City and viewing the midnight sun from the dome, we crossed the Yukon River on the free George Black Ferry to check out the in the paddlewheel graveyard, the resting place of seven steamers that plied Yukon rivers in the early 1900s.