Ten Days in the Yukon: Yukon

June 10, 2017

Whitehorse temps: 27/10 C

Our last fine breakfast by Chef Scott at Hidden Valley equipped us well for a leisurely re-packing of suitcases and souvenirs before we headed back to the the tiny two-gate Erik Nielsen Whitehorse International Airport.

Ready to board at Whitehorse Erik Nielsen International Airport © Dan Silas 2017

I returned our Ford Focus Titanium rental car with just 10 km over the free 1800 km limit. While taking picture of the mileage for the rental agent, I noticed we had achieved an overall average of 5.8 litres/100 km on the fuel efficiency monitor. Assuming the computer is correct, that’s stunningly good fuel consumption - about 5 mpg better than manufacturer claims after adjusting for the smaller US gallon.

The Wrap

The Yukon is a stunning place to visit, and a photographer's dream. Its open country and wide valleys are a Prairie man’s paradise. There’s an energy that can’t quite be articulated when you experience the 20-ish hours of daylight; this allows for lots of time to sightsee. Outdoors, nature calls your soul at every bend in the road.

Yukoners are innovative with their food, plate it very attractively, and cater to taste buds previously unexplored (these folks do more with the humble french fry than anywhere else I’ve been).

The Yukon may be known for its eclectic and eccentric people, but the they are unfailingly nice, helpful, and direct. Everyone we met assumed we were visiting someone we knew; when they found out that wasn’t true, the welcome became even warmer.

The folks at Travel Yukon either train their staff exceedingly well, or hire only the best ambassadors (or both). I’ve visited other national and provincial parks offices and have sometimes felt more like an intrusion. Not so in the Yukon. They are genuinely glad you came.

True test: Would I go back?

I’d go back in a heartbeat, but likely in a different season. I’d love to travel the Dempster Highway in August, when I’m told the fall colours make you feel like you’re inside a painting. Winter also holds a certain allure for the photographer in me. Being from Manitoba, I’m not scared of the legendary cold. Some Yukoners with Manitoba winter experience told me the winters are actually harsher in my home province - and then there’s the promise of aurora borealis.

Take me back, Yukon Territory.

Take me back, Yukon Territory © Dan Silas 2017

June 1, 2017
Yukon population: 35,874

Whitehorse: 21,732

Temps: 16/8 C

Food: Excellent

Arriving in Whitehorse by air gives me an automatic sense of release, of peace, of serenity. Below, the mountains, valleys, and rivers look back in softened geographic relief.

Approaching Whitehorse © Dan Silas 2017

Even I wasn’t planning on this trip in the strict sense of that deliberate word. But when a Westjet seat sale clinched the deal and the time window coincided with my work schedule, I couldn’t say no.

The Yukon has been on my bucket list for 37 years (see About). My dear wife and lifelong travel companion was surely getting tired of hearing me wax on about my Yukon desires all these years. Maybe she joined me just to see what I had been prattling on about.

A 6 am departure from Richardson International in Winnipeg meant an even earlier wake up call. After a plane change in Vancouver, we landed in picturesque Whitehorse right on time. Rental car pick up was smooth, but they did try to upsell us on extra windshield chip and tire insurance at $15.95/day. There are other less expensive insurance options your carrier or credit card provider might offer. If you plan on travelling up the Dempster, check with the car rental agency first.

Alert: Unlike in the south, where pretty much every car rental company offers unlimited free mileage, in the Yukon there’s an 1800 free km mileage limit.

Tip: I booked the rental car via a special offer from Westjet through its partner, Budget Car Rental, at the same time as booking our flights. With prior research, I quickly determined that this deal was about $100 less than booking directly with the rental agency. The savings may not be as great if travelling to a major city where competition is stiffer. Be sure to do your research first.

By now lunch was past due. We drove into Whitehorse and discovered the Burnt Toast Cafe. The name is typical northern self deprecation. We ended up eating here three times. Each meal was creative, unique, and flavourful (tip: try the Humble Salad with Maple Balsamic dressing). Service was excellent.

Our B&B, the Red Door Inn is about 10 minutes from the airport - and everywhere else in Whitehorse. By the time we checked in, we couldn’t decide if a nap or a walk would serve us better. We opted for a lovely 5km walking trail that took us from the door of our B&B, through a forested area, and across the Yukon River (twice). It also happens to be part of the Trans Canada Trail. What a gift it would be to live close to such a trail!

We returned to our B&B ready for a short rest and, because we enjoyed the Burnt Toast Cafe at lunch and were too lazy to make a different decision, we returned and enjoyed a very fine burger with some unique toppings. But first, a worthwhile stop at the Whitehorse Visitor’s Centre yielded a free 3-day parking pass at all metered spots in town, along with some other useful recommendations.

Thanks to our host Mary Ann, our B&B room had black out curtains, otherwise the late night sun would have kept us up exploring.

Ten Days in the Yukon

Day 10/Wrap Up

Day 1