Ten Days in the Yukon

Day 5

Day 5 (June 5, 2017)

Dawson City Temps: 22/5 C

Thanks to blackout curtains in our cosy little B&B room, the midnight sun and 4 am dawn didn’t keep us awake all night.

This is important. The long daylight hours this time of year will mess with your internal clock. More than once we glanced at the time, only to find out it was much later than we thought. And our plans for today meant it would be the longest day.

With appetites sated by a breakfast of ham, eggs, beans, hash browns and toast, we made our way to the Visitor’s Centre for a Walking Tour of Historic Dawson, guided by Ode, a knowledgeable Parks Canada staff, and Justin, a costumed interloper who pops up in character as Arizona Charlie Meadows, the gun toting entrepreneur of gold rush era Dawson City. We enjoyed several of these guided experiences during our stay, including the Life and Poetry of Robert Service (guided and acted by France, a fellow Winnipegger with an obvious passion for the words of Robert Service). Dawson City is also the native home of famed Canadian Pierre Berton, and White Fang author Jack London lived here for a time.

Arizona Charlie in character revelling in his exploits as the merchant/ and entertainment mogul of Dawson City at the turn of the 1900s. © Dan Silas 2017

The cabin of Robert Service, chock full of artifacts of his time.© Dan Silas 2017

Parks Canada staffer France entertains with passionate readings from her personal marked up copy of Robert Service poetry. © Dan Silas 2017

I was glad to hear most of the tour guides acknowledge that Dawson City rests on tribal lands of the Tr’ondëk Hwëch’in First Nation. On at least two tours, the guides spoke briefly of the legacy of Indian Residential Schools, a tragic black mark in Canada’s history. I later learned in an informal discussion with one of the guides that including this information was new for this year, and I am glad for it. While Canada is a great country and citizens have much to be grateful for, it’s also important to be critical where the historical and ongoing story of relationships with original peoples leaves much to be desired.

We met up for supper with an old acquaintance of mine at the Drunken Goat Taverna for an exquisite sampler tray of Greek cuisine on the recommendation of our host, where we were also introduced to the director of KIAC - the Klondike Institute of Art and Culture.

This particular day proved to be our longest as we planned a short drive up to the dome just outside of Dawson to view the midnight sun. To kill some time before that main event, we boarded the free George Black Ferry to cross the Yukon River to check out West Dawson and the Top of the World Highway.

The colourful streets of Dawson City reminded me of Canada's Maritime cities. The entirety of Dawson is designated a national historic site, so new construction must meet a code of standards. This buildings are actually all part of the relatively new Westmark Inn. © Dan Silas 2017

West Dawson is where local character Caveman Bill has literally lived in a hole in the river bank for some 20 years. One might imagine a hermit. We didn’t meet him, but learned he’s quite sociable. A few years ago a friend from Victoria won a fundraiser raffle for tea with Caveman Bill.

We drove about 20 km up the Top of the World Highway which only made me wish we had more time. This route follows the top contours of the mountains and offers spectacular views.

View from Top of the World Highway at 11:00 pm on June 5 - yet another road trip to add to the bucket list. © Dan Silas 2017

Before crossing the river back to Dawson City and viewing the midnight sun from the dome, we crossed the Yukon River on the free George Black Ferry to check out the in the paddlewheel graveyard, the resting place of seven steamers that plied Yukon rivers in the early 1900s.

Yukon River as seen from the West Dawson side at 11:30 pm. © Dan Silas 2017

Midnight sun from the top of the Dome, just outside Dawson City. © Dan Silas 2017

Day 4

June 4, 2017

Road trip to Dawson City

Whitehorse departure temps: 18/2 C

Departure time: 9 am

Arrival time: 5 pm-ish

Gas price in Whitehorse: $1.13/litre

Wildlife count: 5 black bears, 2 brown bears, coyote, eagle, porcupine, fox

Photo Op Rating: 10/10

I love a good road trip, but not bad roads.

Fortunately, the Klondike Highway from Whitehorse to Dawson City was not nearly as bad as some of the locals led me to believe - but then I’m from Manitoba, which has its own reputation for being road-poor. Dips, bumps, and blips under repair were well marked.Road conditions did deteriorate a bit more as we got closer to Dawson.

Pro tip: If the sign says “Reduce Speed,” do it.

Klondike Highway enroute to Dawson City © Dan Silas 2017

There were plenty of rest stops, but not many places to dine enroute. If you’re going to need a restaurant, there are no choices conveniently located around the halfway point. Pack some sandwiches, snacks, and drinks.

Black bears up close on the Klondike Highway, enroute to Dawson City © Dan Silas 2017

A gas station at Pelly Crossing, with its bright blue bridge, offered hot dogs and sandwiches for the hungry traveller.
© Dan Silas 2017

The thinning of dining establishments is easily made up by the many opportunities to capture astounding photos. The road winds and dips through the spacious valley. I could have stopped for photos many more times than I did.

Five Finger Rapids rest stop, Klondike Highway enroute to Dawson City © Dan Silas 2017

At the trail head of the Dempster Highway, another bucket list trip for the future. Note the 'no emergency medical services' warning sign © Dan Silas 2017

The drive is thoroughly enjoyable. The speed limit is mostly 90 km/h, and we enjoyed the relaxed pace.

We rolled leisurely into Dawson City around 5 pm and checked in at Juliette’s Manor Bed and Brunch, aptly named since you have your choice of breakfast times up to 10 am - a nice touch if you like to sleep a little later.

The next stop - and this should be any visitor’s first stop - was at the Visitor’s Centre on Front Street where Parks Canada and Yukon Territory staff work together to offer you the best recommendations on what to see and do.

At Klondike Kate’s we shared a green salad topped with fresh salmon and the best poutine ever, Really. How can you not like feta and green onions on your curdy, gravy smothered fries?. Highly recommended, unless you already have a heart condition.

After dinner we took in the 8 pm show at Diamond Tooth Gerties. Not being big drinkers or gamblers, we nonetheless enjoyed the Cancan dancers and singer backed by a superb piano and drum combo.

The famous Diamond Tooth Gerties © Dan Silas 2017

Day 3

June 3, 2017

Whitehorse temps: 16/3

Skagway temps: 17/9 C

Transport: Car/Bus/Train

This day was long, and best described in pictures. Our bus driver and tour guide picked us up at the White Pass and Yukon Route rail station in Whitehorse at 8:30 am and kept us entertained enroute to the train station in Fraser, B.C., which also serves as the international border crossing into Alaska (Tip: Don't forget your passport).

We made stops along the way at Emerald Lake and Carcross, which is also home to Matthew Watson, Yukon’s oldest operating general store. We popped our heads in long enough to learn that they sell everything from kitschy RCMP souvenirs to real skins and furs.

Emerald Lake, scenic tour bus stop enroute to Carcross. Can you find the moose near the shoreline? © Dan Silas 2017

Yukon's oldest operating general store. © Dan Silas 2017

From Fraser we travelled on the narrow gauge railway through the Tormented Valley and other seemingly impassable country traversed originally on foot by the most hardy and adventurous gold rush miners on their way to Dawson City via Skagway.

Tormented Valley © Dan Silas 2017

At the historical border crossing high in the mountains, Northwest Royal Mounted Police stopped every gold seeker and weighed their provisions to ensure they had the two tons needed to survive for a year. One tale has it that a miner was sent back to Skagway for being found one pound of butter short.

Historic Northwest Royal Mounted Police station somewhere in the remote mountains between Whitehorse and Skagway © Dan Silas 2017

Enroute to Skagway via White Pass and Yukon Route narrow gauge rail © Dan Silas 2017

Just one of hundreds of spectacular views from the train © Dan Silas 2017

Skagway is a pretty little town on the one hand, and kitschy tourist town interrupted with high priced jewellery shops on the other. It’s a major cruise ship port of call, and we were advised to avoid the place on Tuesdays and Thursdays when up to six ships arrive on one day.

Downtown Skagway © Dan Silas 2017

Cruise ship port, Skagway, Alaska © Dan Silas 2017

In Skagway, the bus picked us up, stopping in Carcross again for a short rest stop. This time, the Carcross Commons shops were open. Carcross Commons is a collection of small shops and kiosks hawking everything from coffee and pastries to Indigenous art and crafts.

On the way back to Whitehorse via tour bus © Dan Silas 2017

Back in Whitehorse, hungry and tired and not wanting to a long wait for our supper, we choose the Panda Panda Noodle House for grub before hitting the sack. Huge servings, tasty, and very affordable. Be prepared to take home leftovers.

Day 2

June 2, 2017

Whitehorse temps: 17/7 C

Breakfast: Excellent sourdough pancakes at the Red Door Inn B&B

Our day got off to a leisurely start with a visit to the drydocked S.S. Klondike, a massive sternwheeler being preserved and restored by Parks Canada. There are loads of fascinating stories you can to take in for yourself, along with a short documentary film that was looping in a tent outside.The largest of a fleet operated by the British Yukon Navigation Company, this boat carried provisions, adventurers, and merchants along the upper Yukon River between Whitehorse and Dawson City. These sternwheelers, designed with a shallow draft for shallow rivers, were often steamed at maximum speed to clear sand bars. When they did run aground, cable winches on board were secured to anchor points on shore to drag boats back into deeper water.

At lunchtime we wandered down to a tiny little green space downtown for Art in the Park. Here we met local sculptor Harreson Tanner, working on busts of seven writers from across Canada. Harreson struck up a conversation with us and we quickly got four great tips on places to visit: Dawson City, Yukon Artists at Work Gallery (in Whitehorse), Kathleen Lake (in Kluane National Park and Reserve) and Tombstone Territorial Park. All were excellent recommendations and only a lack of time prevented us from seeing Tombstone.

Here we were also entertained by the five piece folk band, Crooked Folk. As a guitar and mandolin player myself, I couldn’t leave until I had talked with at least one band member, who happened to be Calla, the mandolin player and the only band member to perform some original work. I loved the inter-generational flavour of the group.

Anne at our B&B tipped us off to Miles Canyon, just a ten minute-ish drive out of Whitehorse. Stunning views of aquamarine river waters and a surrounding canyon are flanked by hiking trails. We spent a good chunk of the afternoon contemplating the beauty.

We also visited the Yukon Artists at Work gallery whose modest exterior belies the calibre of work found inside. Here we met the shop-minder for the day, Deanna Bailey, who sculpts amazing three-dimensional scenes in clay. Check out her work - it’s truly incredible. There also happened to be a bookmaking exhibit which tickled the fancies of my partner and travel companion, Prairie Peasant.

We followed Anne’s supper dining tip and thoroughly enjoyed the northern Mexican cuisine cooked up by this family run operation billed as the Yukon’s only Mexican restaurant at a completely unpretentious place called Sanchez Cantina. Pro tip: Get a reservation, which we did the day before.

Day 1

June 1, 2017
Yukon population: 35,874

Whitehorse: 21,732

Temps: 16/8 C

Food: Excellent

Arriving in Whitehorse by air gives me an automatic sense of release, of peace, of serenity. Below, the mountains, valleys, and rivers look back in softened geographic relief.

Even I wasn’t planning on this trip in the strict sense of that deliberate word. But when a Westjet seat sale clinched the deal and the time window coincided with my work schedule, I couldn’t say no.

The Yukon has been on my bucket list for 37 years (see About). My dear wife and lifelong travel companion was surely getting tired of hearing me wax on about my Yukon desires all these years. Maybe she joined me just to see what I had been prattling on about.

A 6 am departure from Richardson International in Winnipeg meant an even earlier wake up call. After a plane change in Vancouver, we landed in picturesque Whitehorse right on time. Rental car pick up was smooth, but they did try to upsell us on extra windshield chip and tire insurance at $15.95/day. There are other less expensive insurance options your carrier or credit card provider might offer. If you plan on travelling up the Dempster, check with the car rental agency first.

Alert: Unlike in the south, where pretty much every car rental company offers unlimited free mileage, in the Yukon there’s an 1800 free km mileage limit.

Tip: I booked the rental car via a special offer from Westjet through its partner, Budget Car Rental, at the same time as booking our flights. With prior research, I quickly determined that this deal was about $100 less than booking directly with the rental agency. The savings may not be as great if travelling to a major city where competition is stiffer. Be sure to do your research first.

By now lunch was past due. We drove into Whitehorse and discovered the Burnt Toast Cafe. The name is typical northern self deprecation. We ended up eating here three times. Each meal was creative, unique, and flavourful (tip: try the Humble Salad with Maple Balsamic dressing). Service was excellent.

Our B&B, the Red Door Inn is about 10 minutes from the airport - and everywhere else in Whitehorse. By the time we checked in, we couldn’t decide if a nap or a walk would serve us better. We opted for a lovely 5km walking trail that took us from the door of our B&B, through a forested area, and across the Yukon River (twice). It also happens to be part of the Trans Canada Trail. What a gift it would be to live close to such a trail!

We returned to our B&B ready for a short rest and, because we enjoyed the Burnt Toast Cafe at lunch and were too lazy to make a different decision, we returned and enjoyed a very fine burger with some unique toppings. But first, a worthwhile stop at the Whitehorse Visitor’s Centre yielded a free 3-day parking pass at all metered spots in town, along with some other useful recommendations.

Thanks to our host Mary Ann, our B&B room had black out curtains, otherwise the late night sun would have kept us up exploring.